The Lewis R. French – Part 2

The literature said 1871 schooner with no engine, but the engine was out in our own personal motorcraft.  A Yanmar twice the size of ours gently pushed us out and along, as the water was smooth as glass and hardly a wisp of wind.  When we finally set sails, the tug was tied tight behind us.  

Every time we needed the engine, Cap’n G just climbed down to the little boat, set the engine, and climbed back up.  Pretty slick.

As advertised we got to help with the lines, and all the jargon.  These sails had a stick at the top, gaff rigged, so when you raised them, you had a throat halyard and a peak halyard.  Two people each.  I think I got some good triceps workouts.  I learned to coil and hang the halyards.  The main stayed up, so we only raised and lowered the foresails, staysails out over the bowsprit.  3 more out there to raise.  Then Kelsey (the messmate) demo’d climbing the mast to raise the topsail.  She made it look pretty easy, but she also looked pretty buff.

We motor sailed til about 3, when we ducked into Pickering Island for a lobster bake.  Nice beach covered with smallish rocks.   

We had to row in in the “dinghy”, 8 at a time.  Jerry and I went first with Zack (first mate), the wood and the fire ring.

The question was shoes.  Should I wear nice strong tennis shoes so I can walk on the rocks, or sandals in case I get my feet wet getting off the dinghy?  I decided sandals, which diverted me from noticing the sky (dark clouds).

At the beach we gathered kindling and Zach got the fire started.  He had a whole garbage can full of firewood.  He started the lobster fire and a grilling fire.

Then “cooks boat” arrived with cook and messmate and the lobster, etc.   

The firewood was dumped out of the garage can, 

and the lobsters (who had been in the pot with water circulating) were dumped into the garbage can without the water. 

Then put a little water in the lobster pot to make enough steam, and set it on the fire to get hot.

Meanwhile, those of us dumb enough to risk the sand fleas went looking for mussels, and found a huge plateful.   

There was lots of seaweed (which Gail conned me into eating, yum), and you just lifted the seaweed off and looked in the cracks.  

 They were hard to pry off, but got easier as you got the knack.  I tried for a 4” crab, but he pinched me.

So the water gets hot, and then we have to take the rubber bands off the pinchers before we toss the lobsters in the pot.   

The trick is to get them all in at the same time so they cook the same.  Well, it took a minute to learn how to do.  You pick them up by a claw, and they wiggle and squirm, and you pull off the rubber bands and then hold them until enough people have a batch to toss in the pot.  It went pretty quick.

Then the “corn toss”.  Cap’n Garth would toss the corn and Zach would field it with the lobster pot lid to land in the pot.  Then the mussels, and we had to wait.

That’s when the black clouds decided to dump.  Just enough to get everything wet.  All the cushions we brought to sit on, all the jackets.  But still it was fun.  I found a driftwood board I could handle by myself and positioned it by the fire, thinking ahead to a place to eat and be warm.  Pretty tricky if you ask me.  It was Jerry who suggested we move it out of the smoke.

The rain quit the time we ate; Capn G said it would.  Messmate Kelsey grilled red hot dogs and skewered chicken and veggies, and then hamburgers,  giving you an idea how long it took the lobsters to cook.

Then Garth gathered a huge pile of seaweed, and dumped the whole mess on that.  The seaweed keeps it warm, and gives you something to to cover it with.  There was plenty of lobster.  Ulla sitting next to me ate 5.  I went for 1 lobster, 1 mussel and 2 corns.  With drawn butter.  The had a pewter pot they put the butter in with the lobster.

But the tide was rising, and as it started to sizzle the fires, we gathered the paper waste and burnt it in the fire just a the tide started to make it sizzle.  Wonder how they knew where to build the fire so it would go out just as we were ready to leave?

Down in the galley was seating for all 21 of us.  Amber got out the cards, and Natalie and Ben and I started Uno, and then Ulla joined us.  I didn’t know Uno could be so cutthroat!  Especially when you can’t tell the different between blue and green in the low light.

Zach played banjo, and Amber played a mandolin, and they all sang sea chanties, especially pulling up the ancho.

Second Day, Isle au Haute (pronounced sort of like Idaho, which I thought would be a neat trick if we could make it there for the afternoon).

Jerry was helmsman most of the day.  

Claim to fame here was a chocolate store called Black Dinah’s, about half a mile from the “dock”.  Also a lighthouse, and an old school.  Along with a whole bunch of big mosquitoes.

Jerry and I headed for the chocolate store, but since he had been helmsman all day he was not into a major hike.  He went most the way, but I found the chocolate, and got a couple of pieces.  The chocolate wasn’t nearly as good as the hike and adventure of finding it.  Who would expect a store up a gravel road?

Day Three:  Snob Island (not it’s real name).

That’s the day I got to go out on the bowsprit.  You just climb over the wooden parts of the boat and step on that webbing that goes out.  It’s really an iron bar, so it feels sort of safe, if you hang on to the bowsprit.  Zach said “just hang on to something wooden, not something rope”.  After we got out there, Kelsey, me and Zach furled the staysail tight to the bowsprit.  Kelsey wrapped it with a rope, then Zach went out and pulled it tight and found another couple of feet of rope we had to take up.  But it was really fun.  After you get your legs you can stand out there propped between the mesh and the sprit and can use your hands to work.  That was the highlight of my day.

I think we sailed 35 miles this day, and rounded Vinal Haven, which looked like we were pretty close to open sea.  I couldn’t believe how stable the boat was.  The biggest issue was if a gust of wind blew open a book and you lost a bookmark.  Cups stayed put, cushions stayed put.  Easy, peasy.

And this was the night with the stars.  Camera couldn’t see them, but I could.

Day 4:  Back to Camden, which we could practically see. 

Breakfast was quiche leftovers.  Lobster quiche, vegetable quiche,  I don’t remember what the other 2 were. 

I had granola and fruit.  The granola was awesome.  At least half nuts and fruit.  Amber made a lot of stuff for me:  gluten free pancakes, lobster free chowder, milk free mashed potatoes, cheese free salad, gluten free bars for dessert (with 3 g protein), and several tofu and tempeh options that I couldn’t partake.  But there were 2 other vegetarians on board, so that made it nice.  If they could get some before I wolfed it all; they were a little slower getting to the food.

Of course every time we stayed and left we had to drop anchor and raise anchor.  I was very interested in that process, so I was always around.  To raise anchor you needed a hoser (Marion), to use the hose to rinse the mud off the anchor chain as it came in, 4 crankers, 2 on each side, to operate a winch sort of like a railroad team with long arms going up and down.  I always picked port outside, the easiset place.  I counted for every heave down, the chain moved one link.  And the links were maybe 3 inches long.  So how many links (heaves) does it take to raise 60 feet of chain?  There was also a flaker, who arranged the chain in the box so it would fit and feed out nice the next time it was dropped.

We motored all the way back.  The crew got busy with all their cleanup chores.  Us guests had to pack.  I don’t like goodbyes.  Everyone just loaded up their stuff and left!

The Lewis R. French – Aug 20 – 24 Part One

First Night:  Camden

We finally got to board at 6 pm!  Bring all our stuff aboard (thank goodness for those little carts), see our quarters, one last trip to “town” for anything else we needed (bottled water?), and get to know the other guests.

Jenny checked us in, Cap’n Garth showed up about 7.  They lit kerosene lanterns, and there was a huge awning, so plenty of room to schmooze.  Several couples had been on the French before.  One couple started as an entire boat charter for their camping group, and has been coming for over 15? Years.

The accommodations:  We were upgraded to the captains quarters.  Open the tiny door and you could stand on a spot maybe 2’ by 2’. 

At your knees was a bed not quite the size of a double.  Your feet tucked under a little sink (8”?) with a little push button faucet.  There was a cup holder with toothbrush holes, and two little soaps.  A shelf above that had a window to the outside, and above our heads was a porthole with a little curtain that looked out to the navigation station and the captain’s knees.  Lots of ventilation.

However, once you sat on the bed, beware accessing anything aft.  There was a huge beam about temple height, and I bashed that hard at least 3 times. 
But there was tons of space over there, and we had two sets of shelves, some with books!  I can’t count all the hooks, and those were our primary storage.  Open the door, get or take things off the hooks.

Cook (aka Amber) gets up at 4 to start the wood stove. 

Coffee and fresh muffins and fruit were served at 7, and breakfast (blueberry pancakes anyone?) was served at 8. 

Then Amber had to scurry to the grocery store to get all her perishables before we got underway at 10. 

As soon as people had eaten, Cap’n Garth walked everyone up to get their cars and park them en masse in an empty warehouse.  Pretty neat.

Stonington

Clear skies and warm greeted a long driving day.  

We started with breakfast at a BBQ joint called Mainely Meat.   Outside seating and all,   I had to explain to the cook what I wanted and he really delivered:  sauteed spinach, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes with baked beans and grits.  Ummm. 

That was before we figured out that the phone GPS had lost its mind and we were totally dependant on an old fashioned highway map.  Too bad the highway numbers on the map didn't match the signs we were seeing.  So we did a lot of guessing whether we were here or there on the map.  Eventually we figured it out. 

 

The photo doesn't quite capture how steep the road into Stonington was.  Don't worry, there was a guardrail. 

 

Jerry liked the boats.  I had to change into shorts and a t-shirt.  First time this trip!

Stonington is a granite town.  They quarry granite from nearby Crotch Island. 

Isn't this pretty?  The name of the street was "Pink Street".  And we found a hotel with a room called "Lewis R. French", which just happens to be the name of our boat.  

Main Street is maybe 3 blocks long, but we found lunch and a "Granite Museum" with a 10 minute narrated diorama of a day in the life of a quarry worker.  They get up, ride the barge to the island, work all day for 15 cents an hour, ride the barge back, and then buy beer for 15 cents a mug.  You know, the usual.  Most of the quarries went out of business when cement and asphalt came around.  But they still quarry Crotch Island. 

I had found a reference to an old quarry with trails.  We looked for it, found the address, but it wasn't a quarry so we gave up looking for it.  I was concerned that the 2 hours listed to get from Stonington to our hotel was going to be exaggerated, and it was already after 2.

Just out of Penobscot we crossed this gorgeous bridge.  And we noticed a sign for Fort Knox.  Well, we had to check that out, and yep, it was the first Fort Knox.  They started building it just after the Revolution to protect the upriver settlements, but didn't have funding.  It was supposed to have 270 cannon, but they never got more than 70 going.  Their claim to fame was the "hot shot".  They heated the cannonballs in a furnace so when they hit the British wooden ship it would start it on fire.  Then those tricky British figured out steel clad boats and it didn't work so great anymore. So the fort was never finished...

We found Belfast, which I had considered staying overnight, but there really wasn't anything there.  The award wining gourmet vegetarian restaurant closed at 5, and the plants in the windows were dead.  We continued on.

Which brings us to  dinner.  Jerry spotted a "Lobster Pound" which started a "discussion" whether it was pound like 16 ounces or pound like pond, where you store the lobster.  I lost this one, I owe him a large Hershey bar.  It's like pond.

Tonight he chose clam chowder, and I had a spinach salad with pear and walnuts and a wine reduction (which tasted like a candy sauce).  Wasn't much of a dinner, good thing we have emergency rations.

About here the GPS miraculously started to work again (perhaps we had been out of range?), and guided us directly to our hotel, 7 pm.

Tomorrow we board the boat.  So tonight everything comes out of suitcases and moves into duffel bags.  Everything that doesn't plug in, that is. 

Acadia National Park

Any day that starts with gluten-free pancakes with blueberry sauce has got to be good.    We started with breakfast in Bar Harbor, where I just couldn’t pass up all the shops…  And I found a Subway to pack a lunch for the park. 

Seems we forgot the binoculars, so we had to go back to the hotel, then we needed gas, so back to town, but eventually we made it to the park.  Although the signs said the parking was full and take the bus, we decided to drive the 27 mile one-way route.  First stop:  Cadillac Mountain.  The views were astounding! 

Even with black clouds and showers, we enjoyed our packed lunch on top on a granite slab perfect for a table and close to the car for a mad dash back when it opened up. 

Everything is made out of granite.  Curbs, barricades...

We missed the turn to the wild gardens, and they are serious about “one-way”.  But we found a tricky way to loop back, and saw the Indian Abbe Museum, and the most well done gardens I have ever seen.  Grouped by environment (meadow, marsh, mountain, etc.) the great thing was all the signs.  It seemed like every single thing was marked with a name.  The sun was going down, so the colors were outstanding. 

These are little frogs in a pond.  The picture is upside down...

We continuted around to the stables, where you can ride to the summit for $26!  I didn’t even bring my boots or hat!  But they had no opening reservations for a couple of days anyway.  They also board horses there for the summer folk, so it’s quite the place.  I’m almost 16 hands tall!

Finishing the loop (why does it take us 6 hours when the brochure says 3???) we went back to Route 66 restaurant in Bar Harbor for a gluten-free hummus sandwich, with a side of mashed potatoes. 

They were the yummiest.  Almost as good as a sundae!   Guess what Jerry had.

Our last night at the Sea Breeze.  Looks like someone messed with the computer while we were gone, it was toast and wouldn’t even restore from a checkpoint.  But Mr. Tech got it working (I was long asleep), and all is well again!

Today we’re off to a granite quarry near Stonington.  Get it, “stone”ington?

Bar Harbor, Maine

We made it!  The flight wasn’t as long as I expected (maybe I fell asleep), thanks to a last minute purchase of an inflatable pillow to sit on.  Our car is a Kia Soul, which Jerry likes and seems to get good gas mileage, even if it is classified as “mid-size” (tee hee).  And the pillow really helps there, too!  I hadn’t thought of that.

We found a place for breakfast as soon as we could get out of Boston, but by 10a neither one of us could keep our eyes open.  So at Portland (Maine), we found a picturesque parking lot, tilted our seats back and snoozed for an hour.

Seems what Mapquest says is 4.5 hours took us 8 of “hard driving” to get here.  It reminds me a lot of the Pacific NW except for the “Look out for Moose” signs.  And the water is absolutely flat.

We got here at 3, and first on the agenda was a  nap.  

 The cove at downtown Bar Harbor:  

At 6p Maine time we put my list of local restaurants with possible options for me to eat to good use and found the “Café This Way” back in a little side street in the bushes.  I thought the food was fabulous, maybe after an iffy breakfast and lunch. 

I had delicious zucchini “noodles” with mushrooms and tomatoes and other stuff over polenta.  It was incredible except for all the extra olive oil.  Jerry had a less than wonderful lobster roll, but he’ll have lots of chances to find the perfect one.  The table next door was talking about lobster the third day in a row.

Oh, our accommodations!  Just like the internet picture!  Incredible view.  But our room is around back.  Jerry asked for one in front, and the guy said “not at that price”.  Tee hee. 

There are at least 2 zillion people here in town.  But the good side is we found an open grocery store after 9 on Sunday.  I loaded up on apples, bananas, carrots and peanut butter.  I’m set! 

It was as the sun set that Jerry remembered to bring a jacket.  He’s in t-shirt and shorts, and I’m freezing in a shirt, sweater and long pants.  It’s a lot cooler down by the water than up on the hill.  Perhaps a shopping trip is in order.  There are L.L. Bean outlets everywhere!

So I’m the early bird, up blogging instead of taking a walk.  Seems my tennis shoes are still packed and the laces aren’t laced because I washed them in the last load, and don’t know where to go anyway, and Jerry would worry.  Ya, that’s it!

Looking forward to Acadia National Park today.

Engine 2 Convention April 28 - 30, 2014, Portland

Michele and I had just completed the Engine 2 28-Day Challenge.  Started by a fireman (hence the Engine 2 name), the fire station challenged themselves to lower cholesterol by eating only whole foods.  No meat, no refined foods (anything with flour, out of a box, or "junk), limited (or no) oil.  The Challenge provided a meal plan, shopping lists, and recipes.  What could be easier?


This came on top of my conference with Dr. Said, my new naturalpath, who found I was allergic to gluten, black beans, soy beans, navy beans, and clams.  So no more wheat, change all my beans to pinto or white or black-eyed peas, and avoid anything with soy in it, including soy sauce, tofu, tempeh, and Braggs Liquid Aminos.  Then for my MS (which I had just quit all my meds) he recommended for sure no gluten, no MSG, no neurotoxins, lots of protein at each meal and mostly raw food.  And of course a liver cleanse and supplements.  It seemed overwhelming at the time.  How to do this?

I was planning a trip up north anyway, and since Michele was already interested in Engine 2, it seemed a good opportunity to gather the girls (Shanna was enthusiastic but a little surprised at the program) for a long weekend and 16.5 hours of intense training on the science with doctors McDougall, Esselstyn, Greger and Lisle, including cooking demonstrations, and a real live survivor.  The primary focus is heart health, but it overflows to autoimmune health, cancer health, and diabetes health.

It was held at the Hilton in Portland, and they fed us silly on the program.  Each meal was buffet style, with 3 lines set up the same.  We grabbed faster than the cooks could keep it replenished!

I even got my own lasagna gluten and black bean free!  I did have to share with one other gluten-free gal.

Each morning at 6:30 they offered yoga from the top floor of the Hilton!  The view was fantastic. 

That's me in the red shirt, Michele in orange, and Shanna in red. 

Michele's "vegetarian friend" from work, Deb, also attended.  That's Michele's plate from the "Burger Bar" with Deb. 

Black Bean Extravaganza. 

Without the black beans.  Shanna's plate looks a little more timid than mine...

This is (gluten-free) Pasta Bar with Marinara, Steamed Greens with Walnut Sauce, and Apple-Cardamom Flapjack Crumble with Cashew Sauce.  Yum!

We did get 20 minute breaks twice a day.  We tried to get in as much walking as we could, even though it was pretty drizzly. 

It's funny that this is the only presenter I took a picture of.  This is Ann Esselstyn, Dr. Esselstyn's wife.  She's been cooking this way for over 30 years, and raised I forget how many kids on in.  She's a real believer, but also full of all kinds of tips and tricks.  She showed us how to strip kale. 


Rip Esselstyn, the Engine 2 guy, is her son.  Too bad I didn't nab a picture of him!  A real looker.  Ann has the bluest eyes I've ever seen. 

I've now followed this plan over 3 months, and I have to say I feel many times better than I did before.  The days of laying on the couch are over.  I bounce out of bed and walk first thing in the morning.  Somewhere I lost over 10 pounds (?), eating everything that isn't tied down, with no cravings or feelings of deprivation.  If my uncle brings a homemade rhubarb pie, I eat it!  My only MS symptom that seems to persist is my intolerance of heat.  Woohoo!